Subject: How to put ZIF Drives in the Karma: a guide
This mod was conceived of because of my want of a DAP with the features of a Karma but with larger storage space. Because of the shortage of Hitachi 1.8" 44-pin drives, I decided to do some research on whether it was possible to use a different type of HDD in the Karma.
I pondered putting Toshiba HDDs with 50-pin connectors (which I think are the same as those used on CF cards) in the Karma, but they were too long. I realized that the only HDDs that had a chance of fitting in the Karma were the newer ZIF drives. But there were no adapters suitable for use in the Karma.
I finally found some adapters on eBay that fit the bill – they had the right kind of connector to fit directly into the Karma’s HDD connector and came with a ZIF cable that was long enough to allow the drive to be put in a different direction than that of the adapter. And the HDDs that could be used with it were in no danger of disappearing any time soon – they were used in the amazingly popular other DAP that we won’t mention here.
There are a few modifications you need to do to the Karma in order for it to work in it, but I think that it’s worth it if you want a larger Karma. You’ll need to modify the ZIF adapter, replace the battery, and dremel the back of the case in order for it to all work.
Parts needed: A ZIF to 44-pin adapter, listed on eBay as a "1.8 toshiba ZIF Hard drive to 2.5 IDE Adapter", and a compatible ZIF HDD, which should be all 1.8 inch, 40-pin ZIF drives. Seagate, Hitachi, Samsung, and Toshiba make what seem to be compatible drives.
Drives that have been tested and work: Toshiba mk8009gah (M0tah), Hitachi C4K60 Slim 60 GB (MrNibbles, video of result here, model should be HTC426060G8CE00)
Equipment needed: soldiering iron, cutting implement, dremeling tool, and screwdriver(s).
Modifying the ZIF adapter
Because the ZIF adapter has a 3.3v regulator to step down the 5v it expects to receive to 3.3v, you will need to bypass it. Otherwise the voltage delivered to the ZIF drive will be less than 3.3v and the drive will not work. The regulator is located on the left of the adapter and has "AMS1117" printed on it.
The battery
The replacement battery will need to have dimensions of 66x35x5 mm (LxWxH), although the length of the battery can change a bit. I used a Tenergy brand battery purchased from www.all-battery.com with a capacity of 1300 mAh, however, I recommend using a battery that already has a protection circuit board attached to it, such as a battery for a Sony Clie NX70VL, which has the same dimensions (found thanks to this post on the old Riovolution). If you decide to use a battery that already has a protection board, you can simply soldier it to the power daughterboard in place of the old battery. However, if the battery you get does not have a protection board, you’ll have to use the board off of the old battery pack. To do so,
![http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg [Image: http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg]](http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg)
A view of the original battery without its cover.
![http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg [Image: http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg]](http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg)
Another view of the original battery.
![http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg [Image: http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg]](http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg)
The polarity of the battery protection board.
![http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg [Image: http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg]](http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg)
The metal plates soldiered to the input pads on the protection board.
![http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg [Image: http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg]](http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg)
A close up of the attached battery protection board.
![http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg [Image: http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg]](http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg)
The finished battery/power module.
The case
Since the HDD will be residing in the back of the case instead of against the mainboard as it typically is, you will need to dremel the back of the case a bit in order to make it fit.
Get rid of all of the nubs that held the battery in place and also get rid of the plastic that held the metal piece. Finally, dremel the plastic sticking up in the bottom right of the back and the small bit sticking up next to the upper right nub. The HDD should go in the back so that the curved part of the HDD case below the disks is at the bottom.
(Guide continued in post 2 because of the 10,000 character limit.)
I pondered putting Toshiba HDDs with 50-pin connectors (which I think are the same as those used on CF cards) in the Karma, but they were too long. I realized that the only HDDs that had a chance of fitting in the Karma were the newer ZIF drives. But there were no adapters suitable for use in the Karma.
I finally found some adapters on eBay that fit the bill – they had the right kind of connector to fit directly into the Karma’s HDD connector and came with a ZIF cable that was long enough to allow the drive to be put in a different direction than that of the adapter. And the HDDs that could be used with it were in no danger of disappearing any time soon – they were used in the amazingly popular other DAP that we won’t mention here.
There are a few modifications you need to do to the Karma in order for it to work in it, but I think that it’s worth it if you want a larger Karma. You’ll need to modify the ZIF adapter, replace the battery, and dremel the back of the case in order for it to all work.
Parts needed: A ZIF to 44-pin adapter, listed on eBay as a "1.8 toshiba ZIF Hard drive to 2.5 IDE Adapter", and a compatible ZIF HDD, which should be all 1.8 inch, 40-pin ZIF drives. Seagate, Hitachi, Samsung, and Toshiba make what seem to be compatible drives.
Drives that have been tested and work: Toshiba mk8009gah (M0tah), Hitachi C4K60 Slim 60 GB (MrNibbles, video of result here, model should be HTC426060G8CE00)
Equipment needed: soldiering iron, cutting implement, dremeling tool, and screwdriver(s).
Modifying the ZIF adapter
Because the ZIF adapter has a 3.3v regulator to step down the 5v it expects to receive to 3.3v, you will need to bypass it. Otherwise the voltage delivered to the ZIF drive will be less than 3.3v and the drive will not work. The regulator is located on the left of the adapter and has "AMS1117" printed on it.
- Remove the regulator by desoldiering it or by simply cutting the leads.
- Bridge the two pads on the bottom middle/right of where the regulator used to be (looking at the board in the same direction as the writing on the regulator). This will directly connect the output from the Karma to the HDD.
- Make sure that the third pad on the left is not bridged; this is negative and the other two are positive.
- Hook the ZIF drive up to the adapter, plug it into the mainboard, and boot up your Karma in recovery mode (hold the menu button and then press the power button). You should see a screen like that below, with the model of the HDD you are using in place of “toshiba mk8009gah.”
- (optional) Also desoldier the LED (located diagonally up and right of the regulator), which lights up when it receives power. Doing this will increase the battery life of the Karma, but probably not by much. (Note: I have not tested doing this.)
The battery
The replacement battery will need to have dimensions of 66x35x5 mm (LxWxH), although the length of the battery can change a bit. I used a Tenergy brand battery purchased from www.all-battery.com with a capacity of 1300 mAh, however, I recommend using a battery that already has a protection circuit board attached to it, such as a battery for a Sony Clie NX70VL, which has the same dimensions (found thanks to this post on the old Riovolution). If you decide to use a battery that already has a protection board, you can simply soldier it to the power daughterboard in place of the old battery. However, if the battery you get does not have a protection board, you’ll have to use the board off of the old battery pack. To do so,
- Remove the plastic covering of the battery pack.
- You should see a PCB glued to the side of the battery cells. Start pulling it off, and when there is enough clearance, cut the plastic holding it in place. The plastic should also contain leads to the two li-ion cells.
- Once you have cut the PCB free, it is a matter of removing the remainder of the leads to the PCB. You should be able to remove most of the leads around where they are connected to the PCB, however, you don’t need to completely remove them.
- Desoldier the small metal plates from the pads. Each plate is soldiered to two pads on the PCB. Luckily, the battery cells only need to be soldiered to one of each pair of pads, as they are connected internally. The negative and positive pads are in the same order as the output to the power daughterboard from the PCB.
- Make sure not to touch the leads of the battery together, shorting the battery. This can be dangerous.
![http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg [Image: http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg]](http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9950/img2397jz2.jpg)
A view of the original battery without its cover.
![http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg [Image: http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg]](http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3913/img2400ra9.jpg)
Another view of the original battery.
![http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg [Image: http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg]](http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5218/img2401cfl9.jpg)
The polarity of the battery protection board.
![http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg [Image: http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg]](http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1606/img2406hs2.jpg)
The metal plates soldiered to the input pads on the protection board.
![http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg [Image: http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg]](http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6684/img2412ty2.jpg)
A close up of the attached battery protection board.
![http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg [Image: http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg]](http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5334/img2407ae7.jpg)
The finished battery/power module.
The case
Since the HDD will be residing in the back of the case instead of against the mainboard as it typically is, you will need to dremel the back of the case a bit in order to make it fit.
Get rid of all of the nubs that held the battery in place and also get rid of the plastic that held the metal piece. Finally, dremel the plastic sticking up in the bottom right of the back and the small bit sticking up next to the upper right nub. The HDD should go in the back so that the curved part of the HDD case below the disks is at the bottom.
(Guide continued in post 2 because of the 10,000 character limit.)
M0tah
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