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5-band (fully parametric) EQ Tutorial (and notes on Shure e3 headphones) (Important)
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flattop100 #1
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Subject: 5-band (fully parametric) EQ Tutorial (and notes on Shure e3 headphones)
NOTES ON 7/17/06: I am not replicating this entire thread; merely adding those posts I deem important. Add and comment as you will.

As a live sound engineer (yes, day job), I'll give you a quick breakdown on EQ, as I see it.

Bootnote: Sound is the most subjective thing on the planet/everyone's a sound guy--so in the end, do what sounds best to YOU. This tutorial is to give a basic understanding of how the EQ works, and to give you a starting point in making your own presets.

Now, I'm going to assume that you're EQing to make good stuff sound BETTER. I'm making my suggestions without any regard to battery life. The Rio Gods/Engineers are probably better equipped to answer that part of your question.

For starters, think of the default EQ--Bass and Treble. Since there's two "thingies" to adjust, we could call that a 2-band equalizer. Moving right along, we can call the "Advanced" setting 5-band: Low Bass, High Bass, Mids, Low Treble, and High Treble.

If you will.

I'm going to start getting technical now. I apologize in advance, but there's no help for it.

Back to high school science class...remember the part on sound and physics, which was taught at the end of the school year, and you spent most of class staring out the window at the women's track team?

Good times.

You should have been looking at the chalkboard. The teacher was explaining that sound is actually repeated pressure waves, traveling through the air and slamming into your eardrum. The slower the repetition, the "lower" the sound seems to be. Think of your average high school tuba player--the dude is pretty slow, ain't he? And he plays a low instrument...see the connection?

Since sound occurs frequently, the sound waves are often referred to in blue-collar circles as frequencies. However, scientists are white-collar, and like official sounding terms. Dr. Owit Hertz died for science, so his last name describes the number of sound pressure waves per second. The hertz was born anew! (I can see the movie now: The Passion of Hertz...)

Now, since we humans are nothing more than singing bags of meat, we're falliable. We can only hear between 20 and 20,000 hertz. (That's 20 sound pressure waves per second to 20,000 waves per second.) --That's average. Your actual mileage may vary.

OK, so I can't see the point of all this yet, but I can smell it.

With the 5-band EQ, you can choose what section of the audio range you're boosting or cutting; namely, the frequencies.

Some examples regarding frequencies:

A)A piano emits sounds from about 28 hertz up to 4200 hertz (4.2 kilohertz). (That's the fundemental, anyway; sound does this weird thing where it creates "overtones." Basically, if you have a low pitch and a middle pitch, the sound will add up (yes, like 2nd grade addition) to a high pitch.)
B)Most telephones reproduce 300 hertz to 3.5 kilohertz.
C)Your average home theater subwoofer reproduces sound from about 120 hertz down to about 40 or 50.
D) The typical human 'hiss' or 'S' sound runs the gamut from about 8 khz through 16 khz.

Now, it would be nearly pointless to boost or cut only one hertz--you would hardly notice it. So EQs adjust all the frequencies around a central point. This is part of the reason we refer to them as bands.

This is where the Rio Engineers' collective genius kicks in, and also where the "Width" setting on your EQ becomes important.

I need to introduce another scary music term, the "octave." In music, it refers to equal pitch intervals, one above the other. (Remember Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz? Sing the first word of Somewhere Over the Rainbow...you've sung an octave!) In sound (as opposed to music), we use the term 'octave' a little differently. Our ears work logarithmically, so that an octave is a frequency ratio of 2:1. Translation: There is one octave between 100 and 200 hertz, and one octave between 1000 and 2000 hertz.

The 'Width' on the Karma adjusts how wide an octave the EQ adjusts, in other words, how many frequencies are included in the boost or cut. On the Karma, you can go from 0.2 of an octave, to 4 octaves.

The best example I can think of is a dam breaking. A narrow octave width would sound like the first teeny tiny jet of water, hissing so softly you can hardly hear it. A wide octave width (really frikkin' wide), however, would sound like the whole wall caved in, a full "static on TV" type of sound.

Ouch. My head hurts. I hope this makes sense to some of you out there.

Maybe it would just be simpler if I gave out my EQ settings (using the default Senn earbuds). This won't sound as good to you as it does to me, since we probably wear our earbuds differently, and since we hear differently. On the other hand, I do get paid to make bad bands sound better, so take this as gospel.

Band: 12k
Boost: +3db
Width: 1.2

Band: 2k
Boost: +1db
Width: 1.2

Band: 400
Boost: -2db
Width: 1.2

Band: 120
Boost: +8
Width: 0.8

Band: 60
Boost: +8
Width: 1.0

I see that some "why do you EQ there?" might be helpful. These are kind of a 'default' I use on most headphones. Normally I use Shure e3's'--here are my settings for those.
12k helps "brighten" the sound. Cymbal crashes et al come through a little more.
2k adds a touch of presence as well--makes thing a little more undertandable.
400 is kind of a messy area, so I turn it down
120 is near the high dry bass sound, and I like bass. So I turn it up.
60 is the part of the kick drum sound that moves air.

EDIT: DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!

As phrenzy says
Quote by phrenzy:
A good article certainly, but I'd recommend against boosting bands on a digital EQ, unless you plan to keep the overall gain below maximum output by an amount equivalent to your maximum boost. If you don't, you're asking for clipping.

It is better practice to create the exact same curve in terms of band cut only.
, boosting the EQ too much can cause clipping, (cutting the tops and bottoms off of the waveforms), which results in damage to either A ) The Karma's headphone amp, B ) your headphones, or C ) whatever equipment you have plugged in downstream of the Karma. So go ahead and tweak all you want, but if you hear distortion, there's probably something wrong.


Personally, I think the Rio seems kind of lackluster as far the low-end EQ goes. I've noticed this even on my Audio Technica studio phones (M40fs). I haven't played around enough to validate my statement, but the change isn't as dramatic on the low end (say...100 htz and below) as it is anywhere else.

That being said, I can't thank Rio enough for including this kind of command and control. The EQ and the VU meters give EVERY other music box out there a severe kick in the nuts. THANK YOU!!!
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This post was edited 2 times, last on 2006-07-18, 19:04 by flattop100.
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flattop100 #2
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Quote by MalphasWats:
Thank you flattop100! That was excellent and it answered my question.

I shall have a play about and find my personal setting!

As for my E2cs, I'm getting there, they're agony to take out at the moment, but they seem to be comfortable enough when they're in, I think I'll just use them for a couple of hours today then switch back to my old cans rather than trying for another 8-hour marathon, just until I get used to them!
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flattop100 #3
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Quote by wingphil:
I'm worried, I think you may be shoving them too far into you ears. They should never hurt at all, I'm not talking about getting used to pain

Using the large foam tips, roll them tightly between your fingers for 10 seconds to get them warmed up and squeezed into a narrow cylinder. Then place them so that all of the foam is just contained within your ear canal, rotate them so that the pointy bit of the teardrop is sort of hooked inside the back of your ear 'hollow' and hold them in position while the foam expands to fit your ears.

That's my method but I guess it's quite a personal preference type thing. But it should never hurt.
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flattop100 #4
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Quote by sparks:
Flattop,

I want to thank you, not only for your explanation but also for sharing your eq settings with us. I am using Etymotic ER4S's and they sound absolutely fantastic with your settings.

I pretty much understood the theory behind the equalizer since I have one on my home stereo system, but how to set the thing for optimum sound has always escaped me. An old friend of mine (Masters degree from Juilliard) set up my home stereo a long time ago, and the difference before and after was startling. He read an article about common characteristics in the world's most famous concert halls, and how it related to setting up the equalization curves at home.

Whenever I move, I set up the equalizer using the internal white noise generator to reflect the same curve in whatever room I am using at the time. Seems to work pretty well and I love the results. Using headphones though, has not allowed me to use a white noise generator, nor does it provide the ability to monitor it with a microphone and see the results displayed, so your post was very timely and provided me with a great eq setting. I'm sure the ER4's are different then the stock Sennheisers that come with the Karma, but even so, your setting just tramples the stock settings.

I've listened to fifties, sixties, and country with your setting so far. Haven't tried classical or trance stuff yet, but I'll get to it.

Thanks again.
Quote by flattop100:
Hehehe...Equalizing can be a dark art, sometimes.

There are two reasons for using them in a consumer setting...(I guess only one reason when you boil it down, but hmph!) 1) Remove any undesirable characterisics of speakers/headphones, and 2) Sweeten the sound.

A noise generator is a great place to start, and I'm impressed that you use one! Since this thread is geeking out already, I'll keep going.

White noise might be more recognizable to most of you as static. Sound engineers realized that with a noise generator, audio analyzer and an equalizer, they could tune sound systems (read: big stereos) to have an equal response at every frequency. In other words, they could make it sound better. Apparently, however, this didn't sound quite right to everyone, and so instead of a white noise generator, someone used a pink noise generator (no joke!). The difference is that pink noise has equal energy per octave, whereas white noise has equal energy per frequency.

The end result of all this is that pink noise more approximately matches the human ear's frequency response.

Personally, I don't think that goes far enough. If you have enough control on your EQ, try cutting 2k-4k about 3 db, and boosting 40-60 and 10-14k about 3 db.

I can't encourage people enough to mess around and see what you can do. As long as you keep the volume fairly low...no reason to blow up speakers!
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flattop100 #5
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Quote by sperlsco:
Flattop 100

I have a question regarding octaves and widths. I understand how a width of "1" works, but how does a width of "2" work. For example, I understand that if I a set my center as 60 hz, a width of 1 is 30hz on the lower end and 120Hz on the upper end. But if my width is 2, is my lower end 15hz (i.e. my second octave is half of 30hz) or is it zero (60-30-30=0)? Likewise, is the upper end 240hz (first octave 60+60=120, second octave 120+120=240) or 180Hz (60+60+60)? In other words, am I continuing to half or double at each octave? I'm sure there is an actual mathematical term for what we're doing.

Next, is there a curve applied to the EQ, such that an increase affects the center differently than it affects the upper and lower widths?

Thanks for the primer.

Scott
Quote by flattop100:
Yikes sperlsco. You've stumped the village idiot.

I'll make my guess, but I'd like a Rio Engineer to double-check my work, if possible. (Those guys are gods.)

My first guess is that it doubles. In using professional, software-based EQ equipment, changing the bandwidth in the way you describe really spreads it out. I did 3 octaves once, and nearly the entire listening range (20-20k) was affected.

My second guess is, "not necessarily." I just did a quick and dirty test, and it sounded like it "halved" at each octave. At least to me. Again, I would suggest playing around with a given frequency and changing the width. Maybe someone with an analyzer could run some pink noise though it and see...?

I'm lazy.

On to question two: Yes, there is a curve. In pro equipment, at least, EQing creates a somewhat bell-shaped curve, so that the center frequency is really cranked. As you move out from that frequency, the boost/cut falls off. The width changes the distance of this boost/cut.

The REAL question is whether or not the Karma uses constant Q--how does the EQ of one frequency band influence another? For further reading--(only if you're bored, don't have ADD, and are truly interested) check out Rane's info on EQing. There are some amazing references online regarding audio. Keep the questions coming--it keeps me hopping!
Quote by peter:
QUOTE
I have a question regarding octaves and widths. I understand how a width of "1" works, but how does a width of "2" work. For example, I understand that if I a set my center as 60 hz, a width of 1 is 30hz on the lower end and 120Hz on the upper end. But if my width is 2, is my lower end 15hz (i.e. my second octave is half of 30hz) or is it zero (60-30-30=0)? Likewise, is the upper end 240hz (first octave 60+60=120, second octave 120+120=240) or 180Hz (60+60+60)? In other words, am I continuing to half or double at each octave? I'm sure there is an actual mathematical term for what we're doing.

Each octave is a halving or doubling, yes.

QUOTE
Next, is there a curve applied to the EQ, such that an increase affects the center differently than it affects the upper and lower widths?

Yes, the whole thing is a curve; the centre frequency is just the peak of the curve and the "width" is the width at which the effect is half what it is at the peak. So, in your example above, if centre is 60Hz and width is 2 octaves, then 60Hz will receive the biggest boost, 30Hz half as much boost as 60Hz, and 120Hz also half as much boost as 60Hz. Beyond 30Hz and 120Hz it tails off.

Edit: I got the values wrong (I'd written 15Hz and 240Hz -- that would be a width of four octaves.)

Peter
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flattop100 #6
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Quote by johnm:
For anyone who is interested in the effect the various EQ settings (and headphone impedance) have on frequency response I made a little java app early this year that shows that, available here: KarmaEQ. To run the app just download the KarmaEQ.jar file from the Documents section and double-click the jar to run it, but you need to have the Java Runtime Environment V1.4 or later installed - you can get it at www.java.com
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flattop100 #7
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Quote by Opie:
Great thread. Question for Flattop:

I use my Karma almost exclusively in my 03 VW Passat. I have installed a AUX-IN adapter in my trunk and threaded the RCA back up to my cup holders. I usually set my volume at 29. At that volume, should I not utilize your recommended EQ settings? If so, what would you recommend instead? I have a Monsoon amp in my radio, according to VW, for whatever that is worth.
Quote by Sumratio:
Ok good job on explaining sound flattop but sorry I took offense to the blue-collar statement. My work is kind of grey-collar, a RF field engineer, and we use frequency all the time a Hertz is just a unit of frequency. All you need to know about sound is lower frequencies are deeper sounding and travel farther than higher frequencies. If to bassy lower the gain of the lower freqs and if too tinny reduce the higher freqs. Everyones ears are different and some people even have problems hearing specific freqs, aka tone deaf, so just play with the EQ untill it sound right and good for you.
Quote by flattop100:
Sumratio: my bad. I was just being too witty for my own good.

Opie: I myself just started using my Karma with my vehicle. Here are my thoughts:

1. If you're powering your Karma in your car (ha ha), use a dock and the line outs.
2. If you're powering your Karma in your car w/o a dock, set your volume at max (30). If I recall correctly, there is a slight increase in output voltage which I assume to be helpful for your car radio.
3. If you're not driving terrible far and frequently charge your Karma, also set it at 30--you should get at least 6-8 hours of use.
4. If none of the above apply, find a happy medium in volume output from your Karma and volume from your radio. You want the Karma loud enough so that A] you don't have to turn your radio up all the way, and B] You don't have a lot of hissing.

On to the EQ--I would start with none and see where you can go from there. I use my radio for most of the eq'ing, and just take some midrange out with the Karma (around 400hz --YMMV depending on how good your car speakers sound). Start (on your Karma EQ) with turning things down.

If it's distorting, there's something wrong.

And, like Sumratio said:

Everyones ears are different and some people even have problems hearing specific freqs, aka tone deaf, so just play with the EQ untill it sound right and good for you.

Quote by mr.karmalicious:
QUOTE (flattop100)
If you're not driving terrible far and frequently charge your Karma, also set it at 30--you should get at least 6-8 hours of use.

Why not set it at 29? Almost the same volume, less distortion (I think?), and more battery life. I'm not sure of the battery difference between 29 and 30, but there isn't a change from 1-29. Only 29-30...
Quote by flattop100:
There's a slight voltage (@ 30) according to one of the engineers. I have very little electrical theory, but I'm assuming a bit more voltage will result in less background noise. At any rate, most AUX-IN inputs are looking for +4 dbu (line level), and I figure the close we can get to that, the better.

BTW, I've played around quite a bit with 29 vs 30, and experience no distortion whatsoever. However, I'm only cutting EQ, not boosting it.
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flattop100 #8
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Quote by thehebrewhammer:
Does the karma have a pre-amp feature?
Quote by mech_e:
Does the karma have a pre-amp feature?

You mean a line out? On the dock, yes. On the karma, no.
Quote by thehebrewhammer:
Nah mech... as far as my understanding goes a pre-amp is a master control for the output db of an equalizer.

This is winamp's pre-amp adjuster, which I find is incredibly useful in reducing clipping:[Image: http://img224.exs.cx/img224/6919/preamp9um.jpg]
Quote by mech_e:
hmmm, well then, no, it doesn't. Although, in all the years I worked at CC, I haven't used preamp used in this way. The most common one I saw was to run a turntable thru. It seems to me that the 'pre-amp' in winamp is nothing more than a global volume. What's the difference between turning down the 'pre-amp' and turning down the volume?
Quote by thehebrewhammer:
I noticed that in turning down the volume, the music continues to clip at a lower volume. However, turning down the pre-amp removes the clipping (while making the music quieter), and then turning up the volume restores the sound to its original volume without clipping.
Quote by urbancontra[/quote:
Something about waveforms... amplitude... i dunno, maybe flatty will help us out? i DO know there's a difference.
Quote by flattop100:
Ah, my friends, you are entering the dangerous world of Gain Structure and Signal Path. In live audio, this is usually the Realm of Feedback. In the studio, it is the Land of Clipped Waveforms. This is going to be difficult to do without an illustration, but I'll try. Red indicates the stage at which clipping occurs. Blue means a clipped signal is "passed through." Green means no clipping.

In Winamp, I'm guessing our signal path is:

Source-->EQ Preamp-->EQ-->Master Volume

1st Setup: Boosting only the EQ, and leaving Master Vol @ 100%:
Source-->0-->+10-->100%

2nd Setup: Boosting EQ, and setting the Master Vol @ 50%:
Source-->0-->+10-->50%

3rd Setup: Dropping Pre, boosting EQ, and setting the Master Vol @ 100%:
Source-->-5-->+5-->100%

So, you see, it's a math game, kind of. There are lots of variables here, but what it boils down to is coming out with zero at the end. If, at some point in the EQ, you're boosting +10 db, and the clipping point is at +8, you're going to get clipping. But if you turn the preamp down -5 db, the signal will be +5 when it comes out of the EQ. Which is below the clipping threshold.

Now, this is a pain in the ass, because Winamp's metering is essentially useless. This it's also why it's better to always turn things down instead of up.
Quote by urbancontra:
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Quote by antistar:
That post serves as yet another reason why a discrete percentage of all of flatty's comments should be stickified.
Quote by thehebrewhammer:
So is it at all possible to reduce clipping on the karma?
Quote by flattop100:
Well, ya gotta figure out where the clipping is happening. If it's the mp3 file, you're S.O.L.

If the distortion is simply your headphones not being able to keep up with the Karma's output, buy new 'phones.

If you're EQ'ing a lot, what mr.K said. Either make do with clippity, or turn down the amount of EQ'ing.
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This post was edited on 2006-07-18, 18:44 by flattop100.
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flattop100 #9
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Quote by flattop100:
Here it is: The Flattop100's Hallowed E3 EQ:

C W +/-
12k 1.2 +0
400 0.6 +2
100 0.8 +4
80 1.2 +6
50 1.2 +9

MISC: I've come to realize that:

1. You can't EQ hard enough to overcome perceived 'problems' with response. In other words, the E3's simply aren't gonna break your ears with bass. While I'm doing quite a bit of EQ on the low end, I'm still trying to preserve the natural sound of the E3's.

2. There is no perfect EQ, because every CD sounds different. (This is a result of the last stage in producing an album, called 'mastering.') These settings are to be a general starting point.

3. This is what I use when I'm in a moving vehicle. If you're in a quiet environment, you may want less bass boosting.

4. There are two variations I'll make occasionally. When listening to classical music (especially choirs), I'll set 400 to +0. When listening to guitar rock, I'll set 12k to +2. If you listen to a lot of guitar rock, you might want to set 12k to 6k instead, with the following settings: 0.6 width with +4 attentuation.

5. E3's are incredibly precise headphones. Amazingly so. Not necessarily accurate, but damn close.

6. You might not like this EQ. I've fiddled and fixed until I've found something I can live with, and this is it. YMMV.
Don't say I never did anything for you.
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Quote by flattop100:
You seem to have ignored the concept of decreasing frequencies vs. boosting them in this E3 EQ. Why is that?
Excellent question, and I'm not sure I have a good answer for you. I think it's because I'm hesitant to cut any of the sounds from the e3's. To me, cutting anything would make weaknesses more prevalent, whereas boosting leaves everything intact.

Also, I'm going to guess that cutting and boosting use the same amount of processing power.

Added response: 7/17/06 More realizations:

1. I simply cannot get the desired effect by turning everything down--too much work. It's easier to have a centered reference point (i.e., 12k +0) and work from there, rather than trying to remove everything. Someone could argue that 50hz, with it's +9 db attentuation could be the new "+0," but I respond thusly: nuts.

2. I have new settings. My tastes have changed over time, and now are more neutral:

12k  1.2 +1
400  0.6 -2
200  1.2 -2
120  1.2+2
80    1.2 +4
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flattop100 #11
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Quote by mech_e:
QUOTE
What do you think?
Don't know. We can't hear them. And there's the rub. For all the talk about what sounds better than something else, in the end its all about what sounds best to you. If after a little fiddling around with the eq, that sounds best to you, I'd say that your settings are perfect.
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Quote by flattop100:
QUOTE
Secondly, if I am running from my Karma through the dock into my AV receiver, should I be doing EQ only on the Karma and have the "Bass" and "Treble" (the only EQ settings my receiver has) set to 0 dB?


The Karma's EQ does function through the dock. Personally, I recommend using the reciever's EQ as much as possible. If that doesn't give you the desired results, then use the Karma's.

QUOTE
Third, I listen to a lot of live recordings in FLAC on my Karma. Many of these, for some reason or another, are just way more quiet than the rest of my music (any insight as to why this is would be appreciated), so I was wondering what some good EQ tips were for dealing with this.


The reason is that bootlegs aren't traditionally mastered. Most albums, after they're recorded and polished, are sent to audio engineers that specialize in making the CD sound as "loud" as possible. There's no good reason "why" this is done, other than it's traditional.

Bootlegs, on the other hand, don't get this kind of polishing/abuse. As a result, they seem much quieter. This can't be (easily) be solved with EQ'ing. Better solutions would include using the Autogain (or whatever it's called) on the Karma, or MP3gain*.

*I think that's the one that actually resets the volume level at ripping time. I don't use it--maybe someone that does can chime in?
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This post was edited on 2006-07-18, 19:10 by flattop100.
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flattop100 #13
User title: Aural Fixation
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Quote by nordburg:
Bump, because I just got new cans and decided to give flatty's EQ settings a shot. They're awesome. Other than the occasional crappy recording that no EQ can fix, they're pretty spot on. We both love the bass.

Really enjoying hearing Angry Again by Megadeth on my Grado's. I really couldn't get into the E2's. I finally got them in my ear with a seal but I think that was a mistake as I now have a pain that starts behind my ear and goes down the back of my neck. Not sure if it has anything to do with the E2's because I'd been using them for a month before the pain started and it's only in one ear, but that was the ear where I couldn't get a good seal. I'm going to the doctor tomorrow to get it checked out, but I think canal phones are out of the question for me.
Quote by flattop100:
Nord--just checking one thing--you were lifting up on your ear as you inserted, right? It gives you a better shot into the ear canal.
Quote by jurgenk:
I just received some E4's recently after a very long wait and I may have to look at flatty's tutorial again. His magnificent contribution to world peace and audiophilia (go ahead Google it) will live long after Riovolution is a shadowy memory.
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CAPS LOCK IS LIKE CRUISE CONTROL FOR COOL.
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You have to be on your toes at a ninja funeral.
People hate failed potential an order of magnitude more than they hate mediocrity.
RubenNYC #14
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If anybody has some EQ recommendations for the Grado SR-60 I'd be greatful.  I've been borrowing some settings for the SR-80 that someone posted on the original Riovolution, but I understand the sound is different enough where I'm probably using less than optimal settings.  (My apologies for the runon sentence.  I'll do better next time. ;-) )
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jurgenk #15
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Member since Jul 2006 · 69 posts · Location: British Columbia
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Echoing Ruben (always a good idea), I have, but rarely listen to SR-60's (trying the Waterboys through them right now) and have found that I "enjoy" E3's or 4's a great deal more.  They are likely not burned in but will that make much of a difference?  Definitely find that I have to listen to them at higher volumes (for those concerned: I have weaned myself down to 12-14 with E4's and am now able to hear pins dropping all around and am at 16 with the 60's) to get a similar effect.

Thank you flatty for taking the time to repost all the self-aggrandizing comments and I am happy to see that I made the final cut.  Much love...
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