mimiihu
Show profile
Link to this post
Subject: Opening The Carbon + Carbon Wheel Repair
Opening The Carbon
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0002.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0002.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0002.JPG")
After you remove the front you'll see the two slits where the bottom clips are attached. Use a small screwdriver to reach in, begin at the top of the slit and push down to release the clip. Be gentle, the bottom clips are the most delicate.
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0003.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0003.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0003.JPG")
Once the two bottom clips are free work on one of the sides, carefully reaching in with the small screwdriver and trying to pull the clip outward to release it from the plastic chassis. After one side is done move either to the top or the other side. this picture should give you an idea of where all the clips are.
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0004.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0004.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0004.JPG")
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0007.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0007.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0007.JPG")
Also, it's important that the bottom clip posts are intact to the hold the Carbon together, but they're very delicate and may be damaged while removing the back. Here's a close up of the bottom clip posts:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0009.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0009.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/Disassembly/DSCF0009.JPG")
The posts may snap but still be attached to the rest of the chassis. In that case it should be possible to repair them with the same epoxy you use to repair the wheel (I use a two part 5-minute epoxy widely available). To fix the posts, just put a small amount of epoxy underneath each post to reinforce it. Be careful not to put so much on that the clip can't lock onto it (try to maintain the shape of the post).
Carbon Wheel Repair
The Carbons wheel is a valuable asset most of the time, but for those who's Carbon has taken a fall where the wheel has been impacted, or have just been a little too rough when using it, it becomes clear that the wheel can also be considered the Carbons weak spot. The technique shown here should result in a wheel that is stronger than the original, which is good, but it still may not be able to withstand a direct impact; the mechanism is just not built to withstand a great amount of force. First, let's look at what a working wheel looks like:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0032.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0032.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0032.JPG")
Nothing can be seen about the actual mechanism underneath. For that it has to be broken:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033.JPG")
and the wheel itself:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034.JPG")
Note the two points on the wheel where it was attached to the mechanism underneath. That's right, it's only attached at two points. This might explain the vulnerability to breakage, but it should also be noted that this arrangement may serve to protect the underlying mechanism from an even worse degree of damage in the event of an impact. Either way, I can't bring myself to attempt to just put it back the way it was. I think it makes sense to try to make it stronger, since it broke in the first place. Back to the picture of the underlying mechanism, note the limited amount of surface area available to attach the wheel to. Two surfaces are indicated Although the arrows only point at two points, they're meant to indicate the entire circular surface:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033b.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033b.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0033b.JPG")
And the corresponding surfaces on the wheel:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034b.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034b.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0034b.JPG")
My technique involves using the entireity of the available surfaces instead of just the two original points. The glue used is a two-part fast-curing epoxy:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0035.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0035.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0035.JPG")
This has the advantage of filling empty spaces, and it cures to a very strong bond. Note that although the cure time is stated to be minutes, i'm certain that it actually continues to cure for several hours until it reaches maximum strength so it's best to be patient, though it can be tested almost immediately. The key to using this stuff successfully is to time the cure and only apply it to the surfaces to be bound after it has reached the point where it won't run all over the mechanism and gum it up completely, but before it's so hard that it won't bond to any of the intended surfaces. The way to do this is to mix a small test batch and simply test it periodically over several minutes and note the degree and speed of hardening. When it's first mixed it's very watery, more so than either the resin or the hardener by themselves. I've found it's about ready to be applied 7 minutes after mixing, but you also have to leave yourself time to apply it all around the circumferences so it's probably a good idea to practice applying it in the right pattern on a seperate test surface. You'll also want to mark the place on the top of the wheel that corressponds to the original broken bond underneath:
![[Image: http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0036.JPG]](http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0036.JPG "http://home.earthlink.net/~redled/images/KB/DSCF0036.JPG")
because you'll want to allign the wheel to it's original orientation in order to provide the best mechanical bond. So that's all there is to it. I didn't take any pictures of the actual application because I didn't want it to cure on me while I was taking the picture! It should be clear from the description how it's done, and once you practice on a test surface you should be confident enough to do it. If you apply it at the right point in the cure you should be able to hold it in place for about a minute after you mate the two surfaces and then it should be cured enough to briefly test the wheel. Then you should leave it to set for awhile longer, maybe putting a small amount of weight on the top of the wheel while it cures. Note when you first join the surfaces you may have to hunt a little in either direction until you feel the wheel 'fall' into place with the broken points properly alligned. Also it's a good idea to test the wheel periodically during the first few minutes to make sure no epoxy has seeped onto moving surfaces. If it does moving the wheel will assure that it won't freeze the mechanism as it cures.
Good Luck!
Tutorial by Riolist.
Extra! Extra! Read all about it!
Original "Opening The Carbon" thread by Riolist
www.forums-riovolution.com/index.php?showtopic=12674
Original "Carbon Wheel Repair" thread by Riolist
www.forums-riovolution.com/index.php?showtopic=13319
Additional "Carbon Repair" tutorial by Andi
www.splitbrain.org/blog/2006-07/28-carbon_repair
Additional "Carbon Cannibal: Breaking It Down For The Hard Drive" tutorial by Greg Hughes
www.greghughes.net/rant/PermaLink,guid,e9bdfa3f-da94-4c6e-a2f9-5ff3260040f1.aspx
After you remove the front you'll see the two slits where the bottom clips are attached. Use a small screwdriver to reach in, begin at the top of the slit and push down to release the clip. Be gentle, the bottom clips are the most delicate.
Once the two bottom clips are free work on one of the sides, carefully reaching in with the small screwdriver and trying to pull the clip outward to release it from the plastic chassis. After one side is done move either to the top or the other side. this picture should give you an idea of where all the clips are.
Also, it's important that the bottom clip posts are intact to the hold the Carbon together, but they're very delicate and may be damaged while removing the back. Here's a close up of the bottom clip posts:
The posts may snap but still be attached to the rest of the chassis. In that case it should be possible to repair them with the same epoxy you use to repair the wheel (I use a two part 5-minute epoxy widely available). To fix the posts, just put a small amount of epoxy underneath each post to reinforce it. Be careful not to put so much on that the clip can't lock onto it (try to maintain the shape of the post).
Carbon Wheel Repair
The Carbons wheel is a valuable asset most of the time, but for those who's Carbon has taken a fall where the wheel has been impacted, or have just been a little too rough when using it, it becomes clear that the wheel can also be considered the Carbons weak spot. The technique shown here should result in a wheel that is stronger than the original, which is good, but it still may not be able to withstand a direct impact; the mechanism is just not built to withstand a great amount of force. First, let's look at what a working wheel looks like:
Nothing can be seen about the actual mechanism underneath. For that it has to be broken:
and the wheel itself:
Note the two points on the wheel where it was attached to the mechanism underneath. That's right, it's only attached at two points. This might explain the vulnerability to breakage, but it should also be noted that this arrangement may serve to protect the underlying mechanism from an even worse degree of damage in the event of an impact. Either way, I can't bring myself to attempt to just put it back the way it was. I think it makes sense to try to make it stronger, since it broke in the first place. Back to the picture of the underlying mechanism, note the limited amount of surface area available to attach the wheel to. Two surfaces are indicated Although the arrows only point at two points, they're meant to indicate the entire circular surface:
And the corresponding surfaces on the wheel:
My technique involves using the entireity of the available surfaces instead of just the two original points. The glue used is a two-part fast-curing epoxy:
This has the advantage of filling empty spaces, and it cures to a very strong bond. Note that although the cure time is stated to be minutes, i'm certain that it actually continues to cure for several hours until it reaches maximum strength so it's best to be patient, though it can be tested almost immediately. The key to using this stuff successfully is to time the cure and only apply it to the surfaces to be bound after it has reached the point where it won't run all over the mechanism and gum it up completely, but before it's so hard that it won't bond to any of the intended surfaces. The way to do this is to mix a small test batch and simply test it periodically over several minutes and note the degree and speed of hardening. When it's first mixed it's very watery, more so than either the resin or the hardener by themselves. I've found it's about ready to be applied 7 minutes after mixing, but you also have to leave yourself time to apply it all around the circumferences so it's probably a good idea to practice applying it in the right pattern on a seperate test surface. You'll also want to mark the place on the top of the wheel that corressponds to the original broken bond underneath:
because you'll want to allign the wheel to it's original orientation in order to provide the best mechanical bond. So that's all there is to it. I didn't take any pictures of the actual application because I didn't want it to cure on me while I was taking the picture! It should be clear from the description how it's done, and once you practice on a test surface you should be confident enough to do it. If you apply it at the right point in the cure you should be able to hold it in place for about a minute after you mate the two surfaces and then it should be cured enough to briefly test the wheel. Then you should leave it to set for awhile longer, maybe putting a small amount of weight on the top of the wheel while it cures. Note when you first join the surfaces you may have to hunt a little in either direction until you feel the wheel 'fall' into place with the broken points properly alligned. Also it's a good idea to test the wheel periodically during the first few minutes to make sure no epoxy has seeped onto moving surfaces. If it does moving the wheel will assure that it won't freeze the mechanism as it cures.
Good Luck!
Tutorial by Riolist.
Extra! Extra! Read all about it!
Original "Opening The Carbon" thread by Riolist
www.forums-riovolution.com/index.php?showtopic=12674
Original "Carbon Wheel Repair" thread by Riolist
www.forums-riovolution.com/index.php?showtopic=13319
Additional "Carbon Repair" tutorial by Andi
www.splitbrain.org/blog/2006-07/28-carbon_repair
Additional "Carbon Cannibal: Breaking It Down For The Hard Drive" tutorial by Greg Hughes
www.greghughes.net/rant/PermaLink,guid,e9bdfa3f-da94-4c6e-a2f9-5ff3260040f1.aspx
![[Image: http://badcomputer.newsit.es/extra/paw.gif]](http://badcomputer.newsit.es/extra/paw.gif "http://badcomputer.newsit.es/extra/paw.gif")
This post was edited on 2006-09-16, 21:46 by